The Sound Card Interface can be modified to fit inside an Altoids Peppermints box.  The

modifications described below consist of changes from the "standard" construction defined in the

design and construction manual.  Only the "non-relay" version of the interface can be put into this

smaller configuration.

 

1.  Trim about 1/8" off the bottom of the board (the one without the connectors).  Trim just below the Legend "+12v" and "PGND".  See photos of bottom and top of board assembly.

2.  Trim about 1/16" off the sides of the board.  On the left side, trim near the "by kk7uq" legend.  On

the right side trip near the Diode D4.  See the photos of top and bottom.

 

3.  Trim the shaft of the potentiometers to 0.8" from the top of the potentiometer case to the top of the

shaft.  Mount the Potentiometers on top of the board, using a drop of epoxy to hold them in place.

Be careful not to get the epoxy on the center part of the potentiometer. 

 

4.  Cut a piece of plastic sheet or film to the size of the bottom of the Altoids box to insulate the bottom

of the board from the metal case.

 

5.  Take the top off of the Altoids box by unbending the "hinge" at the back and then bending the

"hinge" back in place.  Turn the top around and adjust the "hinge" so that when you slide the top

back on the box, it fits snugly.

 

6.  Drill the holes in the top and back per the template drawings.

 

7.  Use three insulated shoulder washers (Mouser 534-4711) on the three 3.5 mm stereo jacks to insulate

them from the box.  Some trimming of the sides of the washers may be necessary to get them to

fit side by side.  No insulator is used on the 2.5mm connector.

 

8.  Cut the hole around the 2.5mm connector large enough so that it does not touch the side of the

box when the card is in place.

 

9.  Use a smaller knob on the top, consistent with the smaller size of the box.  Mouser carries a knob

at 3/4" diameter for 1/4" shaft (Mouser 45KN018) which looks good. 

 

10.  Add two jumpers to the back of the board, using insulated wire.  Jumper #1 goes from the pad

on the left side of R3 (not stuffed) to the pad at the cathode side of D3 (not stuffed).  Jumper #2 goes

from the pad on the right side of relay K1 (not stuffed) to top connector of switch S1.  See photo of

back of board.

 

11.  Mount the switch on the board lower than you would for the plastic box.  Slide the switch so

that it rests on the "shoulders" of the mounting pins before you solder the connections.  The top of

the threaded shaft will be about 0.8" from the top of the board.

 

12.  Mount the LED so that the distance from the top of the board to the bottom of the LED is

about 0.6".

 

13.  Cut the "Peppermints" legends from the photo's supplied with the design kit and glue them to

the top and bottom of the modified Altoids box.

14.  Trim the leads on the bottom of the PCB assembly fairly close to the board.

 

                                    

                 Above - Top view of modified board for Peppermints installation

                                    

                  Above - View of bottom of PCB assembly showing cuts along side

                  and two jumpers installed on board.

                                    

                  Above - view of board installed in Altoids box and shoulder washers

                  insulating the 3.5 mm stereo connectors (two of three washers installed)

                                     

                  Above - top view of completed Peppermints assembly with photo

                  legend installed.

                                    

                  Above - view of bottom of Peppermints assembly with photo

                  legend installed.

 

"Altoids" is a registered trademark of Callard and Bowser.